- Neal’s Yard Remedies100
- PHB Ethical Beauty92
- Essential Care88
- Faith in Nature88
- Caurnie Soaps81
Click here for more detailed table
Most people probably wouldn’t want to wash themselves with a petrochemical-fragranced bar of animal fats, but these ingredients may be contained in even the simplest bar of soap – and they might not be easy to identify on the label. Fortunately, some smaller manufacturers make their soaps to vegetarian or vegan standard, using natural essential oils for scent, dried flowers for colour and herbs for exfoliation. Hand-made and cruelty-free, these are an ideal alternative.
Soap is made from animal or vegetable fats, oils or grease, and forms when the fats interact with an alkali. Preservatives, salts, colours, perfumes, moisturisers and emulsifiers may then be added, with the more adventurous brands including fruits, spices and essential oils. Traditionally, soaps were produced from animal fats such as fish oils or tallow, listed in the ingredients as ‘sodium tallowate’. The Vegan Society describes tallow as ‘hard animal fat, especially that obtained from the parts about the kidneys of ruminating animals’. Although there are vegetable alternatives, many of the major soap brands still contain animal fats and consequently are not suitable for vegetarians or vegans.
Vegetable soaps may also contain added ingredients such as honey, lanolin and milk, preventing them from being suitable for vegans. Lush, Caurnie, Suma, Faith and Body Shop soaps are all suitable for vegetarians. Caurnie and Faith soaps are all vegan, while all except Suma’s honey soaps are suitable for vegans. The Body Shop produces a list of its ‘vegan non-friendly’ products and Lush clearly labels those soaps which are suitable for vegans.
The Good Shopping Guide can recommend Caurnie and Ecosoapia, both of which received particularly good marks in the research and have been accredited by the Ethical Company Organisation.
Making soap cleanly
Most of the bigger brand soaps are made from a common soap bar, manufactured by large commercial producers who sell it on in the form of dried soap nodules to individual soap makers for reprocessing. Soaps made by the ‘alternative’ producers, such as Caurnie, Faith and Suma, are hand-made, which provides employment and promotes traditional soap-making techniques. According to information from Suma, the cold saponification process used by Suma and Caurnie is more energyefficient, as ‘all the ingredients remain in the mix, with only such heat input as is required to raise the temperature of the mix to body heat’.
A commercial processor may use a boiling process which could consume up to 65kw hours of electricity and 15 tonnes of water in producing one tonne of soap. The alternative soap makers claim that commercial products extract the glycerine, selling it as a byproduct, instead of leaving it in the soap. Since glycerine is a natural moisturiser, this explains why many soaps can dry the skin.
Synthetics and packaging
Most of the major soaps contain synthetic (petrochemical-based) ingredients, but many of the smaller producers use natural ingredients, such as essential oils, rather than artificial fragrances to scent their soaps. The synthetic ingredients used by the larger companies are often irritants for sensitive skin.
The packaging used by the major brands is often excessive, with Imperial Leather (the UK’s best-selling soap) using three wrappers, including a box. In comparison, Suma’s ethical soap is sold completely loose and just wrapped in a brown envelope, and other sellers such as Caurnie have made a commitment to using only minimal packaging.
Ethical Comparison – Soap Rankings Detailed Table
N.B companies that do not conduct or commission animal testing receive a middle rating (only companies with CFI’s Leaping Bunny certification receive a top rating)
Buy our detailed Ethical Research Reports. See the findings behind companies’ ethical ratings, as featured in The Good Shopping Guide. Several different product sectors available covering hundreds of consumer brands.
We have created ethical comparison rankings for the following brands, based on the activities of the company group (see above tables): Honesty, Essential Care, Faith in Nature, Suma, Caurnie Soap, L’Occitane, Lush, Neal’s Yard, Bronnley, Imperial Leather, Pearl, Crabtree & Evelyn, Origins, Yardley of London, Nivea, Palmolive, The Body Shop, Dove, Lux, Pears, Neutrogena.
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